What range hood problems do we repair?
We repair fan and motor faults, weak suction, noise, lights, and controls on under-cabinet, wall-mount, island, and pro-style range hoods, ducted or recirculating.
| Symptom | Likely cause | What the technician does |
|---|---|---|
| Fan does not run at all | No power at the hood, a failed fan switch or control board, a tripped thermal cutout, or a seized motor | Checks the power at the hood, then tests the switch, the board, the cutout, and the motor, and replaces the part that failed |
| Fan runs on one speed only | A failed speed switch or control board, or a failing motor | Tests the switch, the board, and the motor windings |
| Fan starts, then shuts off | An overheating motor, a thermal cutout that trips, or a loose connection | Tests the motor and the cutout and checks the connections |
| Fan hums but the blades barely turn | A seized bearing, a jammed or rubbing blower wheel, a failed run capacitor on motors that have one, or a failing motor | Turns the wheel by hand, tests the capacitor and the motor, and replaces the failed part |
| Trips the breaker | A shorted motor, a damaged wire, or moisture in the switch or the control board | Isolates the circuit, tests the motor and the wiring, and replaces the failed part |
| Weak suction | Grease-clogged filters, a loose or damaged blower wheel, a stuck damper, or a blocked duct or outside cap | Washes or replaces the filters, checks the wheel, and traces the airflow through the damper to the outside |
| Smoke and smells stay in the kitchen | A spent charcoal filter on a recirculating hood, a damper stuck shut, a blocked duct, or a hood too weak for the stove | Checks the filters and the damper and tells you whether the blockage is in the hood or outside it |
| Grease drips from the hood | Saturated filters, a full grease channel or drip cup, or a hood that hangs out of level | Cleans or replaces the filters and the channel and checks that the hood is level |
| Cold draft when the hood is off | A damper stuck open or missing | Frees or replaces the damper |
| Lights do not work | A burned-out bulb, a failed LED module, a failed socket, or a failed light switch | Replaces the bulb, the module, the socket, or the switch |
| Lights flicker | A loose bulb, a failing LED driver, or a loose connection at the socket | Reseats the bulb and tests the driver and the wiring at the socket |
| Buttons or touch controls do not respond | A failed touch panel, a failed control board, or grease and moisture on the panel | Cleans the panel and tests it, then replaces the panel or the board |
| Auto or sensor mode does not work | A failed heat or air sensor, or a failed control board | Tests the sensor and the board |
| Rattling or humming | A loose filter or panel, or grease and debris that unbalance the blower wheel | Cleans the wheel and tightens the filters, the panels, and the housing |
| Grinding or squealing | A worn motor bearing, or a wheel rubbing the housing | Tests the motor and replaces the motor or the wheel |
| Hood vibrates or shakes | A loose mount, an out-of-balance wheel, or a loose duct connection | Checks the mount and the wheel and secures what is loose |
| Burning smell | An overheating motor, a failing switch, or grease baking onto a hot bulb or the motor | Switches the hood off at the breaker, finds the source, and replaces the failed part |
Weak suction is a common reason to call, and the cause is often grease in the filters, not a failed part. Washing the filters yourself costs nothing and is the first thing to try, and they usually come out without tools once the fan is off. The motor and the wiring behind them are live and coated in grease, so switch the hood off at the breaker before you reach past the filters, and leave the motor cover to the technician. If the hood smells of burning or trips the breaker, leave it off until it has been checked, because built-up grease is a fire risk. If you see smoke or flames, leave the house and call 911.
Which range hood types do we service?
We service under-cabinet, wall-mount, island, and pro-style hoods. The shape changes how the technician reaches the motor and the blower.
- Under-cabinet hoods that mount below a wall cabinet, the most common type
- Wall-mount (chimney) hoods that run up the wall to the ceiling or a soffit
- Island hoods that hang from the ceiling over a cooktop in an island
- Pro-style hoods and inserts built into custom cabinets and liners
Ducted hoods send the air outside through a duct. Recirculating (ductless) hoods pass it through a charcoal filter and back into the room, which cuts grease and odor but leaves the heat, the moisture, and the combustion products of a gas stove in the kitchen. A hood hangs over a cooktop or a range, and the over-the-range microwave has a small hood of its own, so we repair that fan and light too, as part of a microwave repair visit. We work on Wolf, Viking, Thermador, KitchenAid, Bosch, GE, and other major brands.
How does a range hood repair visit work?
Arrival windows are booked online or by phone. The technician tests the hood, finds the failed part, and gives you a written estimate for the repair. Nothing is repaired until you approve it.
The technician starts with the power at the hood, the switch, and the filters, since those explain many dead or weak hoods, and then tests the motor, the blower wheel, and the damper. If the hood tests fine and the air still stops, the cause sits in the duct or the outside cap. Those belong to the house, not the hood, so the technician shows you where the air stops and you decide how to have it cleared.
When the technician has the part on hand, the repair is usually finished the same visit. If the part has to be ordered, you pick the day we come back.
Before the visit, clear the cooktop or the range under the hood and let it cool. Have the model number ready. It is usually on a label inside the hood, behind a filter, or on the side of the housing. If the hood hangs from a high ceiling, say so when you book so that the technician can plan for the height.
Should I repair or replace my range hood?
Repair a hood when the fix costs well under half the price of a comparable new one. If the repair would cost more than about half, we tell you so and talk through whether it makes sense.
The National Association of Home Builders' 2007 life-expectancy study, an older but widely cited source, puts the typical life of a range hood at about 14 years. A new hood is more than a swap, because it has to match the duct size, the cutout, the mounting height, and often the look of the kitchen. That makes repair worth a look for a wall-mount, an island, or a pro-style hood. Repair is the better choice when:
- the hood is wall-mount, island, or pro-style, or built into custom cabinets
- the problem is a bulb, a switch, a damper, a motor, a blower wheel, or a control board
- the housing and the mounting are sound
Replacement is often the better call for an old, basic under-cabinet hood that costs little to swap, for a housing that is rusted or dented, or when a remodel changes the layout and the hood no longer fits the plan.
What can I check before I book a range hood repair?
Quick checks
Check these in order, and stop when the hood works again.
- Check the wall switch and the breaker. To reset a breaker, switch it fully off and on once, and if it trips again, leave it off and call us. Then see whether the light works even if the fan does not, since the light and the fan are switched separately. A working light with a dead fan points to the motor or the fan switch. If neither works, suspect the power supply or the control board.
- With the fan off and the hood cool, take out the metal grease filters. They usually slide or twist out, and the edges can be sharp. If they are dark or greasy, wash them in hot soapy water, or in the dishwasher if the manual allows it, let them dry, and put them back.
- On a recirculating hood, replace the charcoal filter if it is older than the interval in the manual, often three to six months. A spent one lets odors back into the room, while clogged grease filters are what cut the airflow.
- If the hood vents outside, run the fan on high and look at the outside cap from the ground, or ask someone to watch it. Do not climb a ladder or go onto the roof. The flap should swing open. A flap that stays shut, or a cap packed with leaves or a nest, blocks the air.
- For a dead light, switch the hood off at the breaker, let a hot bulb cool, and replace it with the type and wattage the manual lists, handling a halogen bulb with a cloth or gloves and not bare fingers. Many hoods take small halogen or LED bulbs that differ from household ones.
- If a filter reminder stays lit, the manual explains how to reset it. It is usually a usage timer, not a fault.
If you smell burning, switch the hood off at the breaker, do not use it, and call us. If you hear grinding, or the hood sags or shifts, stop using it and call. Never hang anything from a hood. For a small grease fire in a pan, turn off the burner and slide a lid over it, and never use water. If you see smoke or flames you cannot put out at once, get everyone out of the house and call 911.
Keeping a hood clean and quiet
Run the hood every time you cook, starting a few minutes before the pan gets hot. Use a higher speed for frying, searing, or boiling, and let it run for several minutes after you finish, so grease and moisture leave the kitchen. Wash metal filters about once a month, and more often if you fry or sear a lot. Wipe the housing and the control panel with a damp cloth and a mild degreaser, and never spray liquid into the controls.
What does range hood repair cost?
You pay a diagnostic fee for the hood, then for the repair you approve. The fee is set by your service area and waived when you go ahead with the repair. Pick your area in the list of service areas above to see its diagnostic fee.
The repair price is parts plus labor, and the part and your model decide it. Bulbs, switches, and dampers are the quick, low-cost fixes, while motors, blower assemblies, and control boards cost more in parts and labor. The number comes in writing, on site, before any work starts.
Our labor warranty is 90 days on every repair. If the work fails in that time, we come back and redo it with no labor charge. Parts carry their own coverage, set by the part and the supplier.
