What dryer problems do we repair?
We repair heating faults, long drying times, drum and motor problems, noise, shutoffs, and control faults on gas and electric dryers.
| Symptom | Likely cause | What the technician does |
|---|---|---|
| No heat on an electric dryer | A failed heating element, a blown thermal fuse, a bad high-limit thermostat, or a 240-volt supply that has lost one leg because of a worn breaker or a loose connection | Measures the voltage at the outlet, then tests the element, the fuse, and the thermostats and replaces the failed part |
| No heat on a gas dryer | A weak or failed igniter, a bad flame sensor, or worn gas valve coils | Tests the igniter's current, the sensor, and the valve coils, then replaces the failed part |
| Takes too long to dry | Restricted airflow from lint in the blower housing, a crushed or kinked vent hose, or a packed duct or outside flap, or else a weak heating element or a worn thermostat | Measures the airflow, clears lint from inside the dryer, checks the vent hose, and tests the heater and the thermostats; if the air stops in the wall duct, shows you where |
| Cycle ends early, clothes still damp | A film of fabric softener on the moisture sensor strips, or a failed sensor | Cleans the sensor strips and tests the sensor circuit |
| Gets very hot, or shuts off mid-cycle | A clogged vent or blower, a failing cycling thermostat, or a high-limit thermostat that trips too soon | Checks the airflow first, then tests the thermostats |
| Drum will not turn | A broken drive belt, a failed idler pulley, or a worn motor | Opens the cabinet, checks the belt and the pulley, then tests the motor |
| Squealing, thumping, or scraping | Worn drum rollers or glides, a flat-spotted idler pulley, or a worn drum bearing | Turns the drum by hand to find the noisy part and replaces it |
| Rumbling or rattling | A coin or other object in the blower housing, a loose blower wheel, or a worn motor bearing | Checks the blower housing and the wheel, then listens to the motor |
| Shakes or vibrates | A dryer that is not level, worn drum rollers or glides, or a loose blower wheel | Levels the dryer, then checks the rollers, the glides, and the blower wheel |
| Will not start | A failed door switch or start switch, a blown thermal fuse, a bad control board, or a tripped breaker | Checks power at the outlet, then tests the door switch, the start switch, the fuse, and the board |
| Door will not stay closed | A broken door catch or latch | Replaces the catch or the latch |
| Drum light does not come on | A burned-out bulb, a worn socket, or a door switch that is not registering | Tests the bulb and the socket, and checks the door switch |
| Buttons do not respond, or the cycle will not advance | A failed control board or user interface board, or a worn timer | Tests the board and the controls and replaces the failed one |
| Burning smell | Lint on the heating element or in the gas burner area, or a belt or motor that is overheating | Stops the dryer, cleans the lint from the heater area, and checks the belt and the motor for heat damage |
| Electric dryer trips the breaker | A shorted or grounded heating element, a damaged terminal block or power cord, or a worn breaker | Tests the circuit for a short, inspects the terminal block and the cord for heat damage, and replaces the failed part |
A thermal fuse is a safety device, so a blown fuse is a symptom as much as a cause. The usual reason it blew is restricted airflow, and replacing the fuse without finding out why sets up the next failure. So the technician also checks the lint inside the dryer and the vent connection. The duct inside the wall and the cap outside belong to the house, not to the dryer. If the air stops there, the technician shows you where, and you decide how to have it cleared. If an electric dryer trips its breaker again after one reset, there may be a short or a heat-damaged connection, so leave the breaker off and do not use the dryer.
Which dryer types do we service?
We service gas and electric dryers, standalone and stacked. Gas and electric models fail in different places, but both depend on good airflow, so the airflow gets checked whenever the symptom points to it.
- Electric dryers on a 240-volt circuit, where the heating element, the thermal fuse, and the thermostats are the usual suspects
- Gas dryers, where the igniter, the flame sensor, and the gas valve coils fail most often
- Stacked dryers and laundry centers (the washer side is covered under washer repair)
- Compact dryers made for apartments and small laundry closets
- Ventless (condenser and heat-pump) dryers, which have no outside duct. A long drying time on one of these usually comes from a clogged lint filter or heat exchanger, or from a full or blocked condensate container, drain, or pump; tell us the model when you book
We work on Whirlpool, GE, Samsung, LG, Maytag, Kenmore, Electrolux, and other major brands.
How does a dryer repair visit work?
You choose an arrival window online or by phone. On site, the technician tests the dryer, identifies the failed part, and hands you a written estimate for the repair. The repair starts only after you approve it.
The technician starts with the symptom and with the airflow. On a dryer that is not heating, they measure the voltage at the outlet and then test the heating parts in order, because a tripped breaker, a blown fuse, and a failed element all look the same from the outside. For a long drying time, they check the airflow before they open the heater.
A part the technician carries is fitted the same visit. A part that has to be ordered means a second visit, at a time you choose.
Before the visit, clear a path to the dryer and leave room behind it if you can, because the technician may need to pull it out to check the vent connection. Have the model number ready. It is on a label inside the door opening or on the back panel.
Should I repair or replace my dryer?
Most dryer failures come down to a single part, such as a belt, a fuse, a thermostat, or a heating element, so repair is often the better choice. It is worth fixing when the repair costs well under half the price of a comparable new dryer. Past about half the price of a new dryer, we tell you so and go through the numbers with you.
The National Association of Home Builders' 2007 life-expectancy study, an older but widely cited source, puts the typical life of a dryer at about 13 years. The signs that favor a repair:
- the dryer is under about 10 years old
- the problem is a belt, a fuse, a thermostat, a heating element, an igniter, or a roller
- the drum and the cabinet are in good condition
Replacement is often the better call when the drum is rusted through or dented, when the motor and the control board are failing together, or when several repairs have piled up on an older machine.
What can I check before I book a dryer repair?
Quick checks
These take a few minutes and need no tools.
- Empty the lint filter. If it has a waxy film from dryer sheets, wash it in warm soapy water and let it dry fully, because a coated screen blocks air even when it looks clean.
- On an electric dryer, check the breaker. It is normally a double-pole 240-volt breaker, so switch it fully off, then on once. If it trips again, leave it off, do not keep resetting it, and call us. If the drum turns but nothing heats, one leg of the supply may be dead because of a worn breaker or a loose connection, and a technician should test it. If the plug, cord, or outlet is scorched, discolored, or hot, stop using the dryer and switch its breaker off.
- On a gas dryer, make sure the gas valve behind the dryer is open and the plug is in the wall. If you smell gas, leave the house at once without touching switches, phones, or the dryer, then call 911 and your gas utility or propane supplier from outside.
- If you can see behind the dryer without moving it far, check that the vent hose is not crushed or kinked. On a gas dryer, do not pull it out yourself, because even a small move can damage the gas connector. If the vent hose behind it needs attention, call us, and the technician will shut off the gas, move the dryer, and test the connections. If you smell gas at any point, leave the house.
- Run the dryer for a few minutes and look at the outside vent. The flap should be pushed wide open by a strong stream of air. If it barely moves, stop the dryer: the airflow is restricted somewhere, and it should not run again until the vent has been checked.
- Do not overfill the drum. A packed drum takes far longer to dry and strains the motor. If a normal-size load still needs two cycles, have the dryer checked soon: restricted airflow is the most common cause, and smaller loads only hide it.
If you see smoke or flames, leave the house and call 911. If you smell burning, stop the dryer, switch off its breaker (or unplug it only if the plug is easy to reach), keep the door closed, and do not use it until it has been checked. The U.S. Fire Administration reports that failure to clean was the leading factor in home clothes dryer fires, at 31 percent from 2018 to 2020. The same page says never to use an extension cord with a major appliance, so plug the dryer straight into the wall outlet. A gas dryer sends its combustion gases out through the same vent, so a blocked vent can also let carbon monoxide into the house; a working carbon monoxide alarm near the laundry area is a sensible safeguard.
Lint and airflow habits
Clean the lint filter before every load. Every few months, unplug the dryer and vacuum the lint that collects around the filter slot. Have the whole vent run, from the back of the dryer to the outside cap, inspected and cleaned at least once a year. Use rigid or semi-rigid metal duct rather than plastic, vinyl, or thin foil accordion duct, keep the run as short and straight as the room allows, and do not put a screen over the outside cap. If drying times creep up, treat it as a warning and have the airflow checked.
What does dryer repair cost?
A dryer visit costs a diagnostic fee, and then the repair you approve. The fee is set by your service area and is waived when you go ahead with the repair. Pick your area in the list of service areas above, and its page lists the fee and typical labor prices for common dryer repairs.
The repair price is the part plus the labor, and it varies with your model. Door switches, fuses, and belts are among the quicker, lower-cost fixes. Heating elements, motors, and gas valve assemblies take more parts and more time. The estimate is written on site before any work starts.
Every repair carries a 90-day labor warranty: if the work fails in that time, we return and redo it with no labor charge. Parts carry the coverage that comes with the part, and it varies.
