What cooktop problems do we repair?
We repair burners and igniters, heating elements, induction faults, glass tops, touch controls, and wiring faults on gas, electric, and induction cooktops, the built-in surfaces many people call a stovetop. Burners that sit on a freestanding range are covered under oven and range repair.
| Symptom | Likely cause | What the technician does |
|---|---|---|
| Burner will not light | Clogged burner ports, a wet or misplaced burner cap, a worn igniter, or a failed spark module | Cleans the burner and the igniter, checks the cap, and tests the spark module |
| Constant clicking | A wet or dirty igniter, a cap that is not seated, or a stuck spark switch | Dries and cleans the igniter, reseats the cap, and tests the switch |
| Yellow, weak, or uneven flame | Clogged ports, a bent or damaged cap, a regulator problem, or a burner set up for the wrong gas | Cleans the ports, checks the flame with the cap seated, tests the regulator, and checks that the burner matches your gas type |
| One burner will not light while the others do | The igniter, the switch, or the ports of that burner, or a spark module that has lost an output | Tests the burner's igniter and switch, then the module |
| Burner will not heat | A failed element, a worn receptacle on a coil cooktop, or a failed infinite switch | Tests the element and the switch and replaces the one that failed |
| Burner stays on high, or will not turn off | A stuck infinite switch or a failed relay | Replaces the switch or the relay |
| Smooth top heats weakly or will not reach a boil | A failing radiant element, or a limit thermostat that trips early | Tests the element and the thermostat, then replaces the weak part |
| Hot-surface light stays on after the glass has cooled | A failed hot-surface sensor or a control board fault | Tests the sensor and the board |
| Does not detect the pan | Cookware that is not magnetic or does not sit flat, or a failed coil or sensor | Checks the pan with a magnet, then tests the coil and the sensor |
| Shuts off, beeps, or shows an error | Blocked ventilation, an overheated or empty pan, liquid on the controls, an overheated inverter, a failed cooling fan, or a control board fault | Reads the code, checks the vents and the fan, and tests the board |
| Touch controls do not respond, or beep | A locked panel, moisture or residue on the controls, or a failed touch panel | Checks the lock mode, cleans the panel, and tests it |
| Cracked or shattered glass top | A hard impact, a heavy pan dropped on it, or thermal shock | Replaces the glass top and checks the parts underneath |
| Knobs loose or broken | A worn knob or a worn switch stem | Replaces the knob or the switch |
| Nothing works | A tripped breaker, a loose wiring connection, or a failed control | Checks power and the wiring connections, then tests the control |
Gas parts and electric parts are not interchangeable, and the same symptom can come from different faults on different cooktops, so the technician tests before ordering a part. When nothing works at all, the supply is the first suspect: a breaker, or a connection in the junction box. Radiant elements on a smooth top cycle on and off to hold the setting and protect the glass, even on high, so cycling alone is not a fault.
Which cooktop types do we service?
We service gas, electric, and induction cooktops, built into a countertop. Each type has its own weak points.
- Gas cooktops, sealed-burner and open-burner, in standard and wider sizes, including professional-style models from Wolf, Viking, and Thermador
- Electric radiant (smooth-top) and coil cooktops
- Induction cooktops
If your burners are on a freestanding or slide-in range, see oven and range repair. Hoods over the cooktop are covered under range hood repair. We work on Whirlpool, GE, Samsung, LG, KitchenAid, Bosch, and other major brands.
How does a cooktop repair visit work?
You pick an arrival window online or by phone, and a technician comes to your home. They test the cooktop, find the failed part, and write up an estimate for the repair. No repair starts until you approve it.
The technician starts with power or gas supply to the cooktop, then moves to the burner. On a gas cooktop, they look at the burner, the cap, the igniter, and the spark module. On an electric one, they test the element and the switch. On an induction cooktop, they check the cookware and read the code before they test the coils and the board.
If the technician has the part, the repair is usually finished the same visit. Otherwise the part is ordered and you pick a time for us to come back.
Before the visit, clear the cooktop and let it cool. Have the brand and the approximate age ready. The model number is usually on a label on the underside of the cooktop, so the technician may need to lift the unit or look from the cabinet below.
Should I repair or replace my cooktop?
Repair a cooktop when the fix costs well under half the price of a comparable new one and the unit is otherwise sound. If a repair would pass about half of a new cooktop, we say so and talk through the options.
Cooktops are not listed separately in the National Association of Home Builders' 2007 life-expectancy study, an older but widely cited source, but ranges, which share the same elements and burners, are put at about 13 years for electric and 15 for gas. Induction electronics are not covered by those figures. A repair usually pays off when:
- the cooktop is under about 10 years old
- the problem is an element, a switch, an igniter, a spark module, or a knob
- the glass top, if it has one, is not cracked
Replacement is often the better call when the glass is cracked on a lower-priced cooktop, when an induction control board is failing on an older unit, or when the cooktop is discontinued and parts are hard to find. A new cooktop that is a different size from the old one can mean cutting the countertop, which is a good reason to repair a cooktop built into stone.
What can I check before I book a cooktop repair?
Quick checks
Pick the items that fit your type of cooktop.
- On an electric or induction cooktop, check the breaker. To reset it, switch it fully off, then on once, and if it trips again, stop and call us. If the display or part of the cooktop works while the burners stay cold, one leg of the 240-volt supply may be dead because of a worn breaker or a loose connection, and a technician should test it.
- On a gas cooktop with the burners off and cool, lift off the burner cap and look at the ports. Brush them clean, and clear a stubborn port with a straight pin or needle held straight, without widening the hole. Do not use a wooden toothpick, because the tip can break off in the port. Let the burner dry fully and set the cap down flat.
- If the igniter keeps clicking after you turn the knob to a cooking setting, or clicks with every knob off, turn the burners off and let them dry for several hours or overnight, or blow cool air over the burner with a hair dryer. A boil-over can leave moisture in the igniter. If it still clicks with every knob off once it is dry, switch the cooktop's power off at the breaker and call us. Do not keep trying to light a burner that will not light.
- On touch controls, wipe the panel with a damp cloth. Many panels lock when a key is held for a few seconds, so hold the lock key to see whether the controls come back.
- On an induction cooktop, hold a magnet to the bottom of the pan. If a magnet sticks firmly, the pan will usually work. Use a flat pan that is about the size of the burner ring.
- Stop using a cooktop with a cracked glass top. Spills can reach the electrical parts under the glass.
If you smell gas, leave the house at once with everyone. From outside, call 911 and your gas utility, or your propane supplier if you have a tank. Do not light a match, flip a switch, or unplug anything.
Everyday care for a cooktop
Wipe ordinary spills once the cooktop has cooled. Sugary spills and melted plastic are the exception: lift them while the surface is still warm, with the elements off, an oven mitt on, and a single-edge scraper, because cooled sugar can pit the glass. Use a cleaner made for glass-ceramic on smooth tops, and lift pans instead of sliding them. On gas cooktops, clean the burner ports every month or two so the flame stays blue and even. Use cookware with a flat, clean bottom on electric and induction cooktops.
What does cooktop repair cost?
The cost is a diagnostic fee per cooktop plus the repair you approve. Your service area sets the fee, and it is waived when you go ahead with the repair. Pick your area in the list of service areas above to see its fee and the labor prices that apply to cooktops.
The repair price is parts plus labor, set by the part and your model. Knobs, switches, and igniters are quick fixes. Spark modules, touch panels, and glass tops cost more in parts and often have to be ordered. You see the figure in writing on site, before the repair begins.
Labor on every repair carries a 90-day warranty. If the work we did fails in that time, we return and redo it at no labor charge. Any coverage on the part itself depends on the part and its supplier.
